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Franck Muller sees green



Franck Muller has launched a new version of its iconic Long Island timepiece, exclusively for the Asia-Pacific region.

What you may not know is that back in 2000, Franck Muller released the first Long Island three-hand watch. The watch's rounded rectangular case, soft curves, short lugs and arched numerals paid homage to the art of the Deco era and quickly became a popular model among collectors.

This year, the watchmaker released a modern evolution in Long Island, with the new design retaining the silhouette of the original, conceived by brand co-founder Vartan Sirmakes, while breathing new life into it, emphasizing its curves, angles and fine lines.

Compared to the original Nagashima design, the new case adds an additional inner case that secures the shaped movement that drives the watch. Franck Muller is one of the few watchmakers able to develop a movement precisely suited to each case, as it independently designs, manufactures and produces cases, dials and movements in Watchland.

Shaped movements make full use of all space within the case, making them more visually appealing but also a challenge for configuration and engineering. The Long Island Evolution's additional inner case provides additional security and shock protection to the movement. The multi-layer construction also provides a bonus – it allows the sapphire crystal that protects the watch’s display to attach to the flange without the need for any visible retaining screws.

The aluminum inner shell is anodized in an eye-catching pine green color, while the titanium outer shell has a black PVD treatment and a satin brushed finish. The luxurious matte black alligator leather strap with contrasting stitching and pine green edges matches the new Long Island case to form a continuous green line that surrounds the entire watch from both sides.

Groundbreaking complications
The latest version of Long Island comes in three versions. The watch brand has created a new "triple jump" complication for the Long Island Evolution Master Jumper, which is limited to 100 pieces, with digital display of hours, minutes and date. While triple jump displays are not new in fine watchmaking, they are only associated with the calendar function in the perpetual calendar - there has never been a watch with three digital displays for both time and date functions.

Jumping hour watches have been around since the 19th century, but full digital display of time in mechanical watches didn’t appear until 2009. The Nagashima Evolution Master Jumping Hours goes even further, using a new vertical isometric jumping hour display, with three windows arranged in a row under the middle of the case, with the hours at the top, the minutes in the middle, and the date at 6 o'clock. . The minute and date windows each use two separate tens and ones discs, both jumping at each decimal digit. The hour window, on the other hand, uses a disc to indicate the hours from "1" to "12". The five discs of the watch, as well as the wheels that drive its movement, are visible through support bridges with machined cutouts on the front of the watch.

In another first, the watchmakers added an in-house sapphire crystal to the inner bezel, adding three-dimensional depth to the watch.

big tourbillon
The tourbillon is the most iconic design in haute horlogerie today. The new Nagashima Giant Tourbillon (pictured above) is limited to eight pieces. Its frame is 20 mm in diameter, occupies more than half of the movement, and is equipped with a three-point support bridge. The barrel bridge, which houses a total of four mainsprings, echoes the all-black treatment of the titanium case. Two hands coated with SuperLumiNova indicate the hours and minutes, and an oversized tourbillon doubles as a seconds counter.

A firm classic
To complete the collection, Benn has launched a third three-hand model, equipped with a fully skeletonized hand-wound FM 1745 movement. Boasting a 7-day power reserve and a precision oscillator running stably at 18,000vph, the Long Island Evolution 7-day power reserve watch (pictured above) is limited to 300 pieces and recalls classic pocket watch movements, but it is given a novel twist. design. A bold transformation gives the new Nagashima case a “T” shape.

The movement bridges are completely skeletonized to allow maximum viewing of the movement through the sapphire crystal, and a small seconds dial sits at the bottom of the display, perfectly balanced by the massive mainspring above it. The gear train and winding gears are also partially revealed and can be further discovered through the back of the watch. Above the movement, large Arabic hour numerals coated in luminous material clearly indicate the time; turn off the light and admire the luminous details of this watch.